Raspberry Pi A+ USB port bent pins

[BlackIceNetwork]

I came across this issue myself with 2 A+ systems, the fist USB port I managed to bend all 4 pins inwards (Yes frustrating and disappointing but why stress it). So instead I resolve the issue by pulling all pins straightforward about halfway point with a small sturdy wire and with a small flat screwdriver I applied upward forward pressure on each pin at a time until it straighten out. I now have a working USB port. As for my second A+ system which didn't bend all the way back, I applied upward forward pressure on the pins with the small screwdriver which did the trick.

I hope this helps, good luck...

[grock]

I've experience the same issue. I attached a usb device. Then I attached power to the raspberry pi A+ but I didn't see any lights coming on. As I inspected the pi A+ trying to find out what is wrong I burnt my hand. Some how the device was shorting somewhere caused by the bent usb pins. The underside of the pi board opposite the usb port was extremely hot, hot enough to burn my hand. However I had no idea the usb pins were even bent at the time. So after removing the usb device I attached power again and the device started to boot. Then I plugged the usb device in again, the usb device started working as well as the pi A+, but then moving the little A+ while the usb device was attached caused the usb device to shift enough to short out the pi A+, then I started to smell burning. All this time I had no idea what was really causing this. So I sent back the pi A+ (defective)

I purchased another one.

Since I thought I just have a defective device and no clue the pins were bent. After opening the replacement I inserted a different usb device into the new pi A+, again bent usb pins. Today is when I discovered the damaged pins caused plugging in a usb thumb drive to the A+. This is a device I plugged into many other computers and microcomputers.

I've used thousands of usb devices on over a thousand computers/microcomputers. This is certainly a design flaw. This is the kind of design flaw that could start a house on fire, cause severe injury, and wind up in a court of law.

Raspberry Pi, I urge you to fix this flaw right away.

[nightfire]

I have fallen foul of this issue today, I wish I had read this thread before trying but who researches how to plug in a USB device..

The combination for me are a nearly purchased and delivered today (from CPC) A+ and Edimax nano.

It doesn't look like I will be able to bend the pins back, i've been trying for some time.

The nano fits in my old B and everything else I have tried straight away.

I can't be bothered with returns, my time is precious, any suggestions an a higher quality port I can fit which fits the footprint?

[tpylkko]

I received an A+ today, and thanks to this thread I appraoched it carefully and inserted a usb-cord into it a few times before I put in an Edimax. Luckily, I had no bent pins, so that trick might be worth using.

[mulepic]

I didn't read this before I got my a+ and of course I bent the pins. But I managed to bend them back w/ small tweezers and then carefully insert my usb wifi. It works like a champ now.

[SteveDee]

I'm glad that this issue has been raised once again. I discovered it on my first model A, then my second, and then again on my recent A+.

I feel really sorry for people with broken USB sockets. And I have to say that many comments on the forum have been less than helpful.

These problems are not caused by clumsy individuals, or out-of-tolerance peripheral USB devices. And you should NOT try to press down the pin contacts of the USB socket to soften them up or bed them in! The contact pins are not the problem.

If the socket is faulty, you should return the Pi to supplier, or change the USB socket if you are happy to do so. Only consider poking around the contact pins if the socket is already damaged and you have no other option.

The problem with the A/A+ USB sockets is that the body spring tension is too high. This is due to a combination of the set position of the clips, and the thickness/stiffness of the material. In other words if the spring clips were weaker, the incoming USB device would be able to "float" into position better, and not crush the contact pins inside the USB socket.

There is a photo attached to my original post: http://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewt ... 15#p526115

Note that the B/B+ has different USB sockets, so does not suffer this problem.

So please check the spring clips first, and don't be afraid to prise these clips out a little to reduce the pressure. This may be one case where a loose fit is preferable to a tight fit.

[cdo]

It is very sad seeing people write "I wish I had read this thread before..." after they discover the problems.

What about the foundation issue an official warning on a prominent place? For instance, a blog entry or in the download section where most people go after purchasing a new Pi?

This would save a lot of annoyance and also deliver the message that the problem is being investigated / solved.

[DirkS]

It is very sad seeing people write "I wish I had read this thread before..." after they discover the problems.

What about the foundation issue an official warning on a prominent place? For instance, a blog entry or in the download section where most people go after purchasing a new Pi?

This would save a lot of annoyance and also deliver the message that the problem is being investigated / solved.

From years of experience I know that most people don't read such things even if you stick a message it on top of the Pi itself...

[paul_hirst]

I just managed to break my xmas present (Pi A+) by plugging in an edimax wifi dongle. I hadn't even powered it on.
It was bought from pimoroni. I feel a little bad sending it back since Raspberry Pi is a charity.
I have a soldering iron and solder sucker. Will it be simple enough to replace the socket? It seems to have 4 connections for the usb pins and another 2 larger connections which are anchor points and presumably ground. So 6 things to unsolder and resolder? Is that it?

[SteveDee]

....Will it be simple enough to replace the socket?...

I've replaced two connectors, but I would not describe the operation as simple. Have you removed soldered components from pcbs before?

The most important thing is to avoid damaging the pcb and surrounding components. The damaged socket is no longer important, so if you can cut any of the pins off it will make the rest of the connector easier to remove. Once the body has been removed, the cut pins can be worked on individually.

You need a suitable soldering iron. It seems to help to flood more solder onto a pin before sucking it off.

Once you have removed the old socket you then have the choice of replacing it with either a horizontal or vertical socket: http://captainbodgit.blogspot.co.uk/201 ... aging.html

The very best of luck.

[paul_hirst]

I decided to try using a paperclip first to straighten them out. The end snapped off one of the contacts but I have them all straight and much to my surprise, apparently working again. I've yet to pluck up the courage to plug in the wifi dongle which originally broke them but I have a hub plugged in and it all seems to be ok.
If I have any trouble I'll attempt soldering a new socket but for now I seem to have avoided it.

[SteveDee]

... much to my surprise, apparently working again. I've yet to pluck up the courage to plug in the wifi dongle which originally broke them but I have a hub plugged in and it all seems to be ok..

Great stuff!

I still recommend that you turn the Pi over, and then slacken the 2 lower body clips a little. This will help to avoid the contact pins getting bent when you plug in a USB device. If one of the pins is broken, it may be more likely to catch on an incoming USB connector.

[alexeames]

I have three A+ that I bought back at launch, but just today buggered up one of them due to not knowing about this issue (using a wireless keyboard dongle). Since it's one of the first 10000 with gold plated pads, there's no way I'm sending it back. I'm abroad at the moment and it makes me glad that I brought three other Pis with me.

I shall be locating a replacement part and breaking out the reflow gun when I get back home.

[alexeames]

I couldn't wait another two weeks, so sourced some USB ports locally and managed to replace the port. Getting it off was a pig (I only have an 18 Watt Antex iron here) and I couldn't free up the USB GND pad. Managed to get the others all done though and bent the GND pin on the USB port and wired it to GND bypassing the pad. It booted and let me log in with wireless keyboard dongle, so I'm thinking it's OK. It would have been a lot easier with my reflow gun, but I couldn't wait

[ShiftPlusOne]

The solder used has quite a high melting point. To make it easier for yourself in the future, you could've added normal solder to lower it a little and then wick it up. You could also clip off the component first to lower the thermal mass, but I suspect the shielding metal is harder than typical wire cutters and would just ruing them.

[alexeames]

The solder used has quite a high melting point. To make it easier for yourself in the future, you could've added normal solder to lower it a little and then wick it up. You could also clip off the component first to lower the thermal mass, but I suspect the shielding metal is harder than typical wire cutters and would just ruing them.

Thanks. I did use 60:40 leaded to lower the average melting point. I think I would try to clip off the component another time. (A dremel would have been ideal.) That would help a bit, but even once the component was removed, the hardest part was getting the GND pad of the USB port free of solder (not the two extra large mounting holes which are also grounded). I simply couldn't get it hot enough. This must have been down to the ground plane itself and I think the only thing that would have helped was more heat. I did consider a blowtorch, but then I though that would just kill the Pi and I'd be better off connecting the USB GND pin to GND elsewhere instead.

It's a bit hacky, but it works I've got four more spare USB ports, so when I get back, I might try it again 'properly' with my reflow gun Then again, I might just leave it if it continues to work well.

[SteveDee]

...I only have an 18 Watt Antex iron here...

That should be enough, but you will need a short dumpy bit, not a long pointy one!

...I might try it again 'properly' with my reflow gun Then again, I might just leave it if it continues to work well.

If you keep applying heat by changing connectors, the tracks/pads will eventually lift and break......so best left alone, if its working.

Don't forget to reduce the USB lower clip tension on your other model A boards.

[ShiftPlusOne]

I did consider a blowtorch, but then I though that would just kill the Pi and I'd be better off connecting the USB GND pin to GND elsewhere instead.

Heh, the first time I removed the connectors from a pi. I underestimated how hot the rest of the board actually was, so when I accidentally bumped the board, some of the small passives were moved off their original pads. I wasn't interested in trying to set them all back, so it was a write off. >.>

[alexeames]

...I only have an 18 Watt Antex iron here...

That should be enough, but you will need a short dumpy bit, not a long pointy one!

All I had was a long dumpy standard bit. Tried for ages and no dice.

...I might try it again 'properly' with my reflow gun Then again, I might just leave it if it continues to work well.

If you keep applying heat by changing connectors, the tracks/pads will eventually lift and break......so best left alone, if its working.

Don't forget to reduce the USB lower clip tension on your other model A boards.

Yeah I think I'll leave it as it is now it's working. (I would say working again, but I don't think I'd ever booted this one up before.) I think the other ones I bought were OK. But now I know to be slightly cautious and "if you have to push too hard, there's an issue"

[bensimmo]

I've just bought 3 A+'s for our school projects and while setting up we were having USB problems, noticed on has a lot of the pins bent backwards another one bent back and of course this has written them off and my B+ and the older B has not had any problems.
Luckily the third A+ and hasn't yet.
Do you know if this is a warranty/guarantee/known 'balls up' issue as they are standard WiFi adaptors and keyboard we use on other devices.

If so how long does it normally take ( I think these are via Amazon.co.uk )?
Given we need to use these in the next few weeks to go up in a rocket (only 1km or so) how easy is the USB part to replace given I only have an 18W antex at the school (may be able to grab a 25W at best)? [I know that'll void any warranty]

[DougieLawson]

It's a known problem that the USB socket on an A+ can be a bit tight on the first few inserts. Especially with a slightly oversized plug. You may be able to get a warranty replacement, but strictly speaking it's your fault.

[MrEngman]

I had the same problem, also with an A+, but managed to fix it by using a sewing needle to pull the connections back to their right places.

Found it really hard to plug in a wifi module and then it did not work and looking at the USB socket all 4 pins were pushed back into the socket. Using a sewing needle I was able to pull the pins back to their normal places checking the positions against a different Pi to see that they were in the right place. Then I used a thin pair of pliers to flatten the connections so they were not so tight. I could then plug in the wifi adapter and all works OK now.

EDIT: One thing I forgot to mention. I bent the end of the needle to form a very small hook. Made pulling the contacts back to the right place fairly straight forward.


MrEngman

[troozers]

Hi,

Just had the same problem with a Lindy Wifi/Bluetooth dongle. Had no issues using the dongle within a Model B+ device, but I can see bent pins on the A+..... I hadn't even tried to force the USB port very much either.

Am currently trying to get a replacement from RS Components as we speak.

Andy

[nikoff90]

WOW I have had an A+ in the box for some time and just went to trouble shoot why I can get no connection and low and behold this is my issue. Wish I would looked into the issue when i got the thing and it was not working. Thanks for posting regardless.

I was able to pull the bent pin back into position with the use of a needle and some needle nose jewelers players the 3 contacts that were not bent seemed to not be inserted into the plastic tongue.

Working now but the socket will need replacement.

[nikoff90]

It's a known problem that the USB socket on an A+ can be a bit tight on the first few inserts. Especially with a slightly oversized plug. You may be able to get a warranty replacement, but strictly speaking it's your fault.

I had no knowledge of this issue when I purchased my A+ there was no warning that I noticed?