Sat Jul 18, 2020 3:04 am
I'm truly sorry I didn't notice this thread sooner...
Something to know about "cable boxes". They are--as people have noted--combined modems and routers. You can, obviously, connect your own router to one of the ports on the combined unit. There are two important things to know about doing that. The first is that, if the router function is left enabled, you should use a *different* IP block on the second router. Otherwise, you are "double NATting" and that can lead to all manner of weird problems. The other way around that is that such boxes pretty much always can be put in "bridge mode" (just ask tech support how to "bridge my modem" if you can't figure it out on your own, just deflect any questions about why or what OS you're using and insist that you want their box bridged. Stick to your guns.).
Now all of that said, the *first* thing I do when faced with a new box from an ISP is log into it, look at what controls I've got, and start setting it up the way *I* want, not the way *they* have it. The absolute first thing is the change the admin password. Change the ID, too, if you can. Set up the IP block you want use, if different from the default. Pick your WiFi channel(s), set the SSID(s), and passphrase(s) to suit yourself. Shut down any access your ISP has set for random open access or "guest" accounts, though you can just configure the later if you expect to use it.
Only once all of that stuff is it *your* modem/router and not the ISPs.
As others have already said, it is understandable that your ISP doesn't want to actually train their help desk (first tier almost certainly run from a notebook full of scripted questions and responses; second tier will probably have *some* discretion in how they deal with a given problem and you might even hit someone actually knowledgeable who can really *help*, but don't bet on it) to deal with anything other than the lowest common denominator. If all else fails, be prepared to lie about what you're using. In spite of all that, there is absolutely no reason why WiFi access would work from a Win 10 system and not work from a Linux system. After all, the same hardware could be running each of those.
A side not on what to do if you hopelessly foul up the configuration. Somewhere, there will be a small hole labeled "reset" (might be a button, but it's usually a hole). Straighten a paper-clip. Push the end into the hole *firmly*, and hold it there. Power the device on for about 10 seconds. Take the paper-clip out. You should now be reset to the manufacturers default configuration.
(I've been on the other side. I once spent 18 months doing Tier 2 DSL support at AT&T. Over time, *what* we could actually help with got to be less and less. It got to the point that even if you knew how to walk a customer through configuring a router, we weren't *allowed* to.