I'm new to the boards, but I thought I would post something about what I'm working on.
It's mainly a Raspberry Pi RetroPie setup crammed into a Nintendo Gameboy DMG case with a 3.5in display and a built-in battery. It's nothing new, and there are many plans out there for such beasts. I adapted my display to run off 3.3V, so my plan is to use a voltage regulator board to take my 3.7V Li-ion battery down to 3.3V, and then run the whole setup on this.
I am posting because I have noticed and have seen on my internet research, that EmulationStation does not work well on a Model A/A+, mainly because there is not enough VRAM to run the interface well. In my experience testing it, the text on the menus gets garbled (replaced with small blocks), and the menus sometimes get garbled, and the game image previews do not appear.
So I could probably disable the detailed EmulationStation view, and just do without the game images, but I would like to keep them. So what's the answer? A Model B/B+. The issue is I really like the current draw readings I was getting with the Model A/A+, so ideally I'd love to have a Model A/A+ with 512MB.
I experimented with deactivating the bus power (to the LAN chip and unfortunately the USB as well), and this dropped my tests of my Model B (running on 3.3V) from 0.34A to 0.21A (while running the console). I couldn't do any other current testing on it because the command to do this (echo 0 > ...buspower) deactivated the USB, and I couldn't get anything to work even via a powered USB hub.
So I looked online, and found this really cool blog post which showed exactly what to do to get a 512MB Model A.
http://freneticrapport.blogspot.com.au/ ... re_24.html
First, I thought maybe I could remove the LAN chip by holding a soldering iron to it, and tried using my regulated Weller soldering iron (I think it's 60W), and it didn't work. I looked into how the blog poster did it, and ended up buying a "BernzOmatic 6-in-1 Solder and Repair Micro Kit Handheld Torch" which goes for about $20 from Lowes or Home Depot + $5 for a can of butane. So I followed his excellent instructions on the blog, and my LAN chip came off without any issues. I soldered the bridges for the USB connector and retested the setup. The current draw dropped to 0.16A (idle in console)! Perfect!
So also, in the blog (in part 2), he talks about removing the rest of the unnecessary components, and I did this, and the current draw dropped further to 0.15A (idle in console).
So I wanted to post my results here in their entirety, so maybe this will help others:
So I'm very happy with this, and it looks like I can move on with my build.
Hope this helps.