I can confirm that USB-C cables do not appear to work when used like that.
What do you mean 'small market'? There have to be at least 3 individuals here in the US alone desperate for such a solution. Considering design and tooling should be able to produce such an item for as little as $200-$300 per. lol
Sure, that would probably work, assuming you made the correct connections, but I've got as even easier and less risky solution...supersjimmie wrote: ↑Thu Nov 14, 2019 9:30 amInstead of having to modify the rPI4 board, would it be possible to add the 5.1k resistor inbetween a male/female usb-c connector?
That way we can have just a small converter-cable with the resistor instead of the risk of ruining the rpi4 board.
Power adapter USB-C -> diy USB-C [male] -> diy cable with resistor -> USB-C [female] -> RPi4
No, but it will be cheaper.
Already been answered. Was there some other answer you were looking for?
@imperf3kt - Despite your experience, I decided to buy a pair of USB-C socket to micro-USB plug adaptors and tried one with my microUSB socket to usb-C adaptor. I chose these Arktek one's from Amazon (https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARKTEK-female- ... B071W8WQBD)
Just about exactly 6 months.W. H. Heydt wrote: ↑Tue Aug 27, 2019 7:18 pmThe flaw is minor, so there's no hurry. I doubt the change will result is a Rev. 2 of the PCB. More likely to be 1.1 or 1.2, or even 1.0.1. I do not, personally, expect to see a revised board for about 6 months. Could be sooner, could be longer. It all depends on whether or not any other board corrections are found that need to be done and how urgent they are.
It would be interesting to see details of [home made] wind and water turbines that can provide just enough power for a Pi 4.I have ... a windmill, waterwheel, clock tower...
Have you confirmed that you even need to perform this mod? By now, you should not be able to buy a Pi without the fix applied from new.Stokestack wrote: ↑Fri Jun 05, 2020 11:32 pmMy Pi 4 just arrived from Adafruit today, and unfortunately it's the old version (2 GB model). So I decided screw it, I'm going to do this mod before I even fire it up. I will say that the only thing that made this task possible was an inspection microscope and some very, very pointy tweezers.
At that scale, you see how soft and flaky the metal is. As you're scraping away to break this tiny pin off the PCB pad, shavings are going everywhere. And you only get a couple of bends of the metal before it breaks. So it would have been very easy to ruin the whole connector.
In the end, it seemed to go fine. Unfortunately, I'm still waiting for my micro-HDMI adapters, so I haven't powered it up yet.
The photo does show a v1.1. The v1.2 board has a small WLCSP component at the corner of the SoC near the WiFi shielding can. Presumably that is the SD card voltage switch that was mentioned as one of the v1.2 changes.
Yes, as noted above, there's a component by the SD slot. And apparently no, you can't expect to receive a 1.2. Adafruit (rather huffily, it seemed to me) declares that there's no way for them to know which revision a unit is. As everyone in this thread knows, that's not technically true... but to be fair, they are in sealed boxes with no external markings. I think the unmarked boxes are a bit bogus on the manufacturer's part, but I understand not wanting resellers to be saddled with "obsolete" inventory that does work in most cases.
too too long to deliver from aliexpresssupersjimmie wrote: ↑Fri Nov 15, 2019 7:32 amWhat I meant with the usb-c male/female could also be done with something like this:
Then do exactly the same with adding one 5.1k resistor on te same pin.
That should work?
Or easier to compose, but less pretty: