I started this thread so as not to further impact the "tachometer" thread that I accidentally hijacked.
I'll try to copy the SBF info from the "tachometer" thread to this thread. My apologies to the "tachometer" thread.
I plan on adapting RCA to HDMI for my screen(too late to change now, at least for awhile). Your touch screen doesn't run off of the GPIO pins? You mentioned HDMI/USB? I didn't know you could run touch through USB.eagleman wrote:Also just found this 10" screen for the RPi.
http://www.chalk-elec.com/?page_id=1280 ... t=priceAsc
Tried uploading photos of the project to the forum, but could not get a reasonable photo from 2mb down to less than 64kb. Well find another place to post... maybe a short video on YouTube after the new prototype board arrives.
I didn't see a price either, weird.eagleman wrote:looked at the software you suggested. it looks good but I could never find what the cost was of it.
does your screen have a HDMI input? Yes, my touchscreen does NOT use any GPIO pins, but a direct, standard USB to the standard I/F and power cable for most android phones. the screen has no extra interface board but just 3 cables:
1. HDMI
2. microUSB for input power (standard cable) from 5v USB port (> 1.5 amps)
3. MicroUSB to USB (standard cable) for touchscreen
I can PM you some working code snippets to check out and see how easy the GUI works
Why? ALL raspberries have analog composite video on the board. Models B&A have a yellow RCA socket, models B+/A+/2B have it on the TRRS socket (ring#2 == GND, sleeve == signal) and the zero has two empty through board holes for analog video.1965mustangV8 wrote: My screen is composite ($15). I'm going to use a adapter to convert it to hdmi.
I was unaware that to B+ had one.DougieLawson wrote:Why? ALL raspberries have analog composite video on the board. Models B&A have a yellow RCA socket, models B+/A+/2B have it on the TRRS socket (ring#2 == GND, sleeve == signal) and the zero has two empty through board holes for analog video.1965mustangV8 wrote: My screen is composite ($15). I'm going to use a adapter to convert it to hdmi.
Awesome. I have been unable to figure out how I could get tire pressure data is that what you are referring to with "air pressure" or are you talking about air brakes? Also, be careful when purchasing a monitor, I bought one form my car (12vdc) and it turned out to be 24vdc and I'm still trying to get it converted.somewhereinusa wrote:This is right up my alley, kinda. I'm working on an information center for old buses. They are old buses that have been converted to motorhomes, all are diesel, most are rear engine. I don't have any problem building and making the sensors work, not sure I will be able to master the coding before I die of old age. Most of this is in early planning ,idea stage. Just some random thoughts about what is needed.
At least 5 temperature readings, using DS18B20 this can be added to
Speedometer, hall effect probably from front wheel, can use gps but readings are affected by occasional signal loss
Odometer, many old buses don't have one at all
At least 3 re settable trip meters for keeping track of things like fuel fills, maintenance, trips etc.
Pressure sensors, oil and at least 2 air pressure. Haven't found any digital senders, so probably use ADS1115 to convert.
Tachometer, can build this using hall effect.
Monitor 2 or three seperate battery voltage systems, either 12 or 24 volt.
At some time in the future I would like to make communication between engine/trans in rear to driver wireless but, for now wired.
Would love to have some help/collaboration on this.
Dick
Air brakes, I have also thought about tire pressure, I think it doable using the senders from an aftermarket unit if the RF can be figured out. A bit pricey I would need 10, six for bus and four for car being towed.I have been unable to figure out how I could get tire pressure data is that what you are referring to with "air pressure" or are you talking about air brakes?
Where did you get the 24V monitor? Many of the buses are 24V, would need something to limit the voltage even then. Some of the older ones are 12V positive ground. Even the 12V units need something to clean up the voltage from car. Not uncommon for automotive to hit 18 or higher. For my bus I think easiest solution is to use 120VAC which is always available.Also, be careful when purchasing a monitor, I bought one form my car (12vdc) and it turned out to be 24vdc and I'm still trying to get it converted.
Have you gotten your prototype boards in yet? I haven't made much headway. I'll go with Edison's way of looking at it, I didn't fail. I just found a bunch of ways that won't work. My composite screen is a waste of time, money and effort. I'm going to order a 7 inch hdmi/usb touch screen for $66 on amazon.eagleman wrote:I am working on just such a monitor for the PI2 and a 7" touch screen. I have most of the software running on simulated inputs right now: but I designed a board that was fabricated in China 3 days ago and is enroute to me here in Virginia, It should be here Monday, Jan. 7th. Upon arrival, the board will be populated and carefully tested before being hooked to my newly rebuilt (and yet unstarted) 1964 Ford 289 CID engine.... how about that? My board includes a forty pin input at the car for monitoring various 12VDC inputs for digital input and 12 channels of analog input to a 16 channel ADC feeding the PI thru an SPI format. The other 4 channels are used to measure the 12vdc level, temp of the 5v regulator on my board, and 2 channels of exhaust oxygen sensors. The oxygen sensors measure air/fuel mixture using 2 APSX modules that plug into my board and control the Bosch sensors thru 2 additional 5 pin connectors. The display is easily formatted using Python 3.5 and Pygame. Current display format has 8 analog gauges, 2 sliding pointers for O2 sensors, and 7 indicator lights to monitor low 12vdc, headlights, highbeams, 2 brake malfunction circuits, board temp alarm, low fuel level of just about any analog or digital input with your own simple definable parameter color like a yellow fuel warning at 1/8th tank that turns to a red warning at the "damned low" fuel level. The software is working with a breadboard version of the hardware and simulated inputs until the new board is assembled and tested. There is even stable a 10VDC regulator (required by my original gauges) and a 5vdc regulator to power the boards 5vdc requirements and some additional 5vdc powered sensors for oil temp, fuel pressure, MAP, and a separate coolant temp system. I'd be glad to share and would gladly accept any suggestions for improvement. NOTE: The distributor on the 289 is a billet small block Ford unit with a GM HEI (high energy ignition) as used for electronic ignition on mid 80s GM products. The distributor has not been tested, but expect to pick off it's tach signal for RPM to be as accurate as the timing circuits (poor) will allow it to be. Let me know if you would be interested. This is not a "make for profit" project so any costs would be minimal and a collaboration could greatly improve the project results.