Long post, with lots of Links. When people ask me for help, i don't just link to other threads, I give all the infos. (I saw someone answer someone by linking to another thread.. but they linked to another post which actually linked to another post. This is not what we should expect from the famed raspberry pi community, we can do better, I will do better.)
I'm using the Teensy 2.0 arduino
. Which will give me 23 buttons and 2 analog channels
I had asked multiple times for help with using the mk_arcade gpio thing, but no one was able(willing) to help me. Here's my Teensy 2.0 code
Which uses the arduino IDE. Just follow their directions, upload the code, and do some basic testing. It can be adapted to use more analog sticks in place of buttons.
I was going to use the exact same ADC too, but decided to go the teensy route and save myself the hassle.
Here's some of what i got so far. I'll add more pictures regularly and will likely put a full post here on the forums once i'm done.
Using an expensive 3.5" 640x480 LCD
and an hdmi to vga adapter
. I'll be done with the whole project in a couple days.
I would suggest using a psp 1000 slide-joystick instead. it doesn't tilt, but it does slide around, and they are fairly flat, and can fit inbetween the AB/Dpad buttons. Right above start select.
A PSP 1000 joystick will be WAY easier to install, 4 wires, big fat pads to solder to
I desoldered almost all the headers on the pi2, except the usb power, since that is a non issue. You can see how little it gets. I then soldered 30awg kynar wire for the hdmi (commonly referred to as Mod Wire). I messed up the Camera header desolder, got frustrated and ripped off a few pads.
No matter how hot i got it, the solder refused to melt.
If you do use the ps Vita joystick, this will help
, you can get some free connector samples from molex.com
If you get some 6pin/0.5mm pitch FPC headers from molex (if you need part numbers, let me know)
you can solder the headers to a Breakout Board.
If i ever use another vita joystick in a build, i'm SOOO going for the breakout boards, i handsoldered the connector to a small piece of flex cable from another scrap salvage, i ended up missing a +v pin, but just soldered the 3 pins together on the ps Vita joystick. They need to be linked anyways so it worked.
Keep in mind, Soldering to the hdmi, or even to some 6 pin connectors for a PS vita joystick.. is not easy, it's 0.5mm pitch width, Which is VERY hard to hand solder to.
I decided to use http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/co ... button-pcb
but i could have went with the original board snipped down. But i wanted cleaner contacts for better controls.
I went with the expensive LCD, which cost $111, because i wanted 640x480, not some blurry 320x240. I made an offer of $111, to match another seller's price, since i wanted to buy from this seller specifically. They packed it really well.
I decided not to use the original gameboy's audio jack, and i'm using one i salvaged off an old laptop motherboard. The gameboy has a groundswitch, which may cause issues, and i don't want to risk it, so i'm using the laptops, with uses a left-channel switch instead. so the ground will be active, but it'll cut the audio to the left channel.
I'm going to use a 4000mAh 3.7v lipo
, and a 500mAh charger
and 1A* boost converter
. The converter is rated for 1A but adafruit says it had no trouble going up to 2A.
I would strongly suggest using a 1A charger
. I'll likely upgrade in the future. Alternative: Fancier 1A charger
, not sure what makes it better. At 500mA charge rate, my battery took too long to charge.
Using a PSP 1000's speaker. It's the size of a dime, which is nothing, and it should get loud enough with a good resonance shroud.
i'll be using connected to the teensy.
4: Quick save, quick load, Menu, and Esc(exit emulator.)
4:Left trigger, RT, Z(n64), Turbo toggle,
1 Joystick(2 analog channels)
That's why i'm going with the teensy 2.0, which cost about $20 shipped. LOTs of buttons, and built in ADCs, connect it to the pi with USB, and it'll register as a usb gamepad. (i've already confirmed it working)
Tips: When working with FPC/Flex cables, use some wide clear packing tape
, and Ghetto-laminate the flex cables. Just up to the connector. The flex cable on the LCD i linked, as well as the one on the PS Vita joystick are both incredibly fragile, so put tape on both sides and CAREFULLY trim it so it's about 3-4mm off the edge of the flex cable. This will make them considerably stronger since they can tear so easily. This also works for nintendo DS flex cables, which are fragile like tracing paper.
To solder the 6pin ps vita connector to the breakout board, use a hot air rework tool and Kapton tape
(special tape that can withstand up to 400c)