Jimakos wrote:Can anyone provide information about the supercap a member used?
I managed to put in a tiny toggle switch to simulate plugging in an HDMI source. When the switch is off, the Lapdock is completely off and shouldn't drain charge as it did with my proof-of-concept solder bridge. I updated my element14 'blog entry to show details.selectnone wrote:Very interesting, I look forward to seeing if you manage to find a way to add a full-off switch, I may actually mod my dock if that's possible.johnbeetem wrote:Here's my [element14] 'blog entry [on RasPi Lapdock HDMI cable work-around]: http://www.element14.com/community/grou ... ork-around
While you're digging, maybe see if there's a reasonable method for disabling the power-dip on closing the screen? (The Pi gets power with the lid open/closed, but briefly turns off when you go from one to the other)
If you are using the stock USB hub link cable, it might be too long. This reduces your voltage. The connectors have some resistance also. Try to find a shorter cable 1ft (.3m) this will increase the voltage you are seeing at TP1/TP2 test points. If your cable is 3ft (1m) or more it is just too long. Even the 18" (.5m) cable that came with mine really dropped the voltage. Hardwiring one end of the cable will help also. You will always show a lower voltage at the test points as they are on the wrong end of the board.malakai wrote:Right now on ver.1 board rev 003. I am just backfeeding the power through usb port. But have tried every combination possible even feeding original power through adapter. Everything works just that game for some reason won't respond to keys I can't find anything else that is non responsive to touch pad and keyboard I am just bugged why that game has issues with it and wonder if eventually I won't find something else that does the same thing.
You can use RasPi for programming, but remember that it only has 256 MB of RAM (which it shares with the GPU) and mass storage is SD card plus USB. This is fine for small-to-medium scale programming using the command line or a light-weight IDE, but a large IDE may require more resource than that, so YMMV. I suggest entering "performance" in the Google Search box on the RasPi home page.Parwana wrote:Hi, I had some questions about the Raspberry Laptop. I already have a Motorola Atrix Lapdock and I thought this could replace my notebook.
Can I replace my notebook with this?
I use my Notebook mainly for programming in Java and other languages, I don't think there will be any problems here, but I want to be sure.
It should, but I've seen topics with people having printing problems. I suggest entering "printing" in the Google Search box on the RasPi home page.Does the RaspberryOS recognise printers?
I often need to print my code, so this is a must have for me.
Some work, some have problems. I suggest searching for specific devices.Do the lapdocks USB-Ports work with this mod?
Can I plug in a 2,5" HDD, a Wifi Adapter in or any other device, without a seperate power supply.
To elaborate on malakai's comment, it does sound exactly like the behaviour people have seen when using a powered USB hub that provides upstream current. The USB standard prohibits this, but some hubs do it anyway. Lapdock's Micro USB plug does it by design.biscuitehh wrote:... I didn't splice any wires though, as I have the micro-USB going into one of the Raspberry Pi's USB ports and I have the Lapdock connecting to the raspberry pi's power port via one of it's USB ports. Now, without the power port being plugged in the Pi will boot for a second or two, then automatically reboot. Once I plug in the power port, it boots normally. When I close the lapdock, my light stays on in the raspberry pi, which I feel like has something to do with my Pi being powered over it's USB port. It's a revision 1 board, so I know there was some USB power freakery but I haven't noticed anything until now.
All4cellular has refurb and new lapdocks from $50 USD to $80. Search for Motorola Atrix Lap.EdwinJ85 wrote:Hi guys, is anybody still selling these lapdocks for a reasonable price? Amazon wants £125 for them and the cheapest one on ebay is £80, CEX want £75 for a second hand one.
I really want to try this out but I'm not having much luck sourcing a lapdock.
You may not need to splice any cables if you have a more recent version of the pi. Look to the right of the USB port and see if there are two fuses (F1 & F2) marked 0000 or if they are missing entirely, you won't need to splice. Just plug the USB cord into one of the ports to power and transmit data.EdwinJ85 wrote: Thank you very much for the help. Is there an easy place to source the cables I will need? I'm incapable of cutting up USB wires like the others have.
I think you want a Micro HDMI Type D connector. The HDMI Type C is Mini HDMI, not Micro.LurkAzusa wrote: For the cables, search eBay for:
HDMI Male to Micro HDMI C Female F/M Converter Adaptor