I just received a 512MB pi from Element14 in Australia with the same issues. I also have solder splashes around the Ethernet Connector. I'll be checking mine with a magnifier before I power it up.cnt wrote:I just received two 512MB raspberry pi's that were advertised as being made in the UK by Sony but came with a "Made in China" sticker over the made in UK silk screening. I wouldn't be too bothered by this alone, but I intend to make heavy use of GPIO and all the odd numbered pins of P5 (right side looking from top) are filled with solder, which will make soldering a header in there a pain in the a**.
Any one know if there is anything I can do to get them fixed?
RS make all their boards in China, Farnell make MOST of their boards in the UK, but because of the demand, they are having to use some Chinese factories as well.cnt wrote:Sadly that is what I expect from china. But I also expected to get a board made in the UK
While there's still a backlog I don't think that's true. I was mildly surprised to get a Chinese one (with a yellow composite port) because I thought all the Farnell/Element14 ones were made in UK now. But a quick check of their FAQ shows that some are still made in China (confirmed by Liz and James).pluggy wrote:I suppose if those selling Pi's were up front about whether you'd get a UK made one or a Chinese one, they'd never be able to shift the Chinese ones.
Sounds like the Chinese factory have their wave soldering machine set a bit on the enthusiastic side.
I totally agree. I'd prefer to support British jobs, but I don't quite make the mental jump from there to...pluggy wrote:I can't help thinking that given the choice, most of the Pi's market (UK, US, western Europe and Aus) would choose the south Wales variant.
pluggy wrote:I suppose if those selling Pi's were up front about whether you'd get a UK made one or a Chinese one, they'd never be able to shift the Chinese ones."
I think I voided it with 8.4V two days agopygmy_giant wrote:I'm no expert but I was going to suggest a teeny weeny drill bit in a teeny weeny hobby drill with the Pi held securely. I was going to suggest this because I think industrial solder mealts at a higher temperature than domestic stuff.
Vibration from the drill could be a problem.
Don't listen to me though ask someone else.
Whatever you do your garuntee will probably be voided.
I don't need them (yet) but I do want them and I like experimenting. I was going to leave it until I wanted to use them, but since this thread started I have an overwhelming urge to solder.pluggy wrote:Us cheapskates use solder suckers and live with the negative aspects as outlined by mahjongg....
If I were going to make connections to P5 I'd suck them and then solder headers into them. If I didn't need P5 I'd leave them blocked.
Ooh - that sounds like a plan. Thanks for the tiptechpaul wrote:I normally find using a pencil tip (conical tip)
Hold board about 1cm from work surface
Heat hole from top side with pencil tip in centre of hole
When solder melted
Quick light tap against work surface does the trick