Very good question. Maybe surrounding the heating element (which is the longest component in that long shaft) with lots of ceramic might cause the heater to runaway and overheat. (I don't know much about the detail design of heating elements but I gather that electric heaters can runaway and burn out.)solderotter wrote: also, does anyone know why there is so much metal exposed towards the tip?
The heating element consists of a coil of wire hidden inside the shaft, this has to be considerable large/long to achieve the desired effect.also, does anyone know why there is so much metal exposed towards the tip?
There's a good point. I was going to be a smarta$$ and say I have two different irons, 25W & 18W for large & small jobs. But maybe the better answer is to have some kind of switchable element. (Assuming the tip size doesn't also limit the heat transfer too much - as the two irons have different size tips. It's probably worth testing to see if a fairly small tip works better at higher power, or if the size is limiting...)redhawk wrote: Desoldering is real problem with my 12w Antex soldering iron especially when you're working on items with a large volume of metal
I tend to use Weller and JBC irons, Weller for larger work and JBC for tiny work and rework.Michael_O wrote:My first iron was a 30W mains-powered one (which I still have). It would get too hot if left on for any length of time but took too long to warm up if unplugged. I came across an ingenious solution in an electronics mag of the time which was to get a mains plug with an on/off switch on it and solder a mains diode across the off side to provide a half-wave rectified supply (which is half power) in that position. This keeps it fairly warm on standby and on switching to full power it is usable by the time you have picked up the solder. I have no idea if you can buy such plugs any more but you could easily do the same with an in-line lamp switch.
PCB assembly Jigs have existed for over 40 years to my knowledge see http://uk.farnell.com/pcb-assembly-jigs-vices. I have two large ones in my loft, I use for batches or larger through hole boards or through hole phase of board assembly.psutton wrote:I.... what would be more useful is for someone to come up with a device that can hold a pcb / strip board still to allow soldering but at the same time allow for the fact that components once soldered make the board less flat.
maybe a anti static sponge, but as part of a unit, that can also hold solder, a few areas to hold components, etc, rather than having them on a desk.
doesn't most everyone have a pair of helping hands for this :psutton wrote: what would be more useful is for someone to come up with a device that can hold a pcb / strip board still to allow soldering but at the same time allow for the fact that components once soldered make the board less flat.
Nope, 99% of my soldering work is done on the desk and very occasionally with double sided sticky tape if the board / module moves.doesn't most everyone have a pair of helping hands for this :
Hisolderotter wrote:Hi, we’re a team of engineering undergrads hoping to redesign the soldering iron. Specifically, we’re looking at making it safer and more usable by younger teens and children.
We had to make one of those in metal work class in high school. We made that, trowels & "ninja stars" the ninja stars weren't on the list of approved items to make though so we had to make them sub rosaRichard-TX wrote:I sort of like this soldering iron. Tips last for years.
Ninja stars? Sounds like my sort of childhood. I lost mine in our large front garden when I missed the target tree. I found it a few days later by standing on it. The point had barbs on it, and it went through my shoe's sole, through my foot, and out through the top. I can't remember how I got it out....and I never thought to seek medical attention or tell my parents. I knew I'd get into trouble...ukscone wrote:We made that, trowels & "ninja stars" the ninja stars weren't on the list of approved items to make though so we had to make them sub rosa