saper_2, did I tell you that now it works!
after many tests I forgot that I initialized the SPI (just to be sure) with Mode1, while it was obviously mode0.
But since my code was a mess I left mode1. After putting back mode0 everything started working.
Of course even your sample code!
So the keys to success were:
1) driving the CS with a generic GPIO pin (I've checked: with working code, changing only CS to use the real CS0 does not work..)
2) sending all the data in some bursts, and not pixel by pixel (line by line really) with ChipSelect at the begin of the frame and CHilSelect disable at the end
3) the capacitor is not needed. It works for the tests even without one, but thanks
4) jumpering MOSI and MISO (!!!) without this it doesn't work.. mhhh so the result is.. eithere the breakout board is broken or..
but the data is sent out on pin labeled MISO
Hoorray! Thanks to everybody. Code will follow