So's probably flying out to sea and squeezing your own squid!ukscone wrote:do you have any liquid gold you could use to refill the ink cartridge? it's cheaper than printer ink
Thanks I'm happy for the Punnet to be open source, but if there is any interest in a 'deluxe' version I'd be uncomfortable with a royalty rather than the money going to the Pi foundation, as there's been any set-up costs, except some printer ink!FinnDoggo wrote:What a great idea and very much in keeping with the low cost & accessibility principles of the RasPi.
I'm sure lots of IT class rooms will be full of eager school kids building and customizing their cases in anticipation of the arrival of school issue Pis.
A simple & essential add-on for classroom work to avoid mishandling and powered-up zaps.
Amazing effort - given you didn't even seem to have a RasPi to hand to match your theoretical dimensions.
Very much like the helpful suggestions in posts about amending your .pdf to allow for RasPi Logo vent and personal designs overprinting.
I have made two now and they fit well after a few tweaks - as already mentioned.
Thank you very much. Very well done!
Should be shipped along with every Pi.
You should get a royalty too!
I like the logo/vents on the top, and the use of foam sheet(?) on the base.MrSlinkyfish wrote:I have developed the design and made it available at:
Any comments are welcome.
Thanks for the measurements!TechColab wrote:I got my Pi a cuple of days ago. The alpa is pretty good but does, as you expected, need a couple of tweaks. I might have a go at tweaking it myself in OpenOffice Draw.
1) Most significantly, the audio socket is closer to the composite video socket (4mm?) and it's on the same base lne, not the same centre line - I.e. it's a bit lower (2mm?).
2) It's a lot easier to glue the tabs on the outside, even if it doesn't look as good. I used a hot glue gun so it might be fine inside if you use superglue.
3) I don't think it needs the air vent on the top - it really doen't get warm at all.
4) Could perhaps add a slot above (and either side of) the CV for the lid to tuck into?
Sticky-out USB / over-recessed Ethernet is a pain but understandable compromise for cost.
Thanks, and just doing that very thingaidanapword wrote:hello! Fantastic job ... BTW.
Could you add a small scale (on two axes) to the image ... then when I print it out I can check it by testing the length of two, say, 8cm lines (one on x and one on y)?
Like I say: Fantastic Job!
I want a squid friendly Pi case! (unless it's name is HP )ukscone wrote:and there is one less squid in the oceanE wrote:.
I've also got ink now, so I'll be able to print it out tomorrow.
Thanks for the suggestion I am thinking of doing a heavier card one, it's just I felt it would require getting stuff especially for making the case, which may put people off, and be harder to cut if you've not got experience with cardboard.poing wrote:I want a squid friendly Pi case! (unless it's name is HP )ukscone wrote:and there is one less squid in the oceanE wrote:.
I've also got ink now, so I'll be able to print it out tomorrow.
But seriously, I used to make things (sundials) from heavy cardboard which won't go through a printer. IMO this material would be much better to create a case than anything you can put through a normal printer.
I'm thinking wouldn't it be possible to create a program on the Pi where you input the board thickness in mm (or grams per square meter) and the program would output a Punnet pdf with the right dimensions allowing for the board thickness? That pdf is then printed on a normal sheet and stuck on the cardboard for cutting.
Could give a nice 2 colour effect too, if the card used wasn't white.Steep wrote:I posted this on the earlier punnet thread but I'll post it here as well, you don't need to print onto heavy paper or card, get yourself some A4 labels like - http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004 ... 00_s00_i00 which I bought, they work a treat.
I've made a subtle but significant revision (well, two, including the vents on the lid as inspired by remondo) -- the addition of VESA mounts, for affixing to the back of an LCD. It consists of two holes of [hopefully] sufficient size, separated by 10cm center-to-center. I could have made the tabs a bit more sturdy, but for demonstration purposes I feel good about it.spacemacgyver wrote:Being too lazy to actually cut anything by hand, I traced the diagram for the Beta version in Silhouette Studio and cut it out. To aid in folding properly, I also added perforations along those edges, and found that it folds quite nicely using 110lb cardstock (sorry for the American units). My unit has yet to arrive, so I can't verify that it is spot-on, but I feel pretty good about the whole thing.
Looks good The tighter USB hole is nice - I wasn't sure how much wiggle room there'd be to get the USB ports through, so I designed it on the larger side. I take it you trimmed 1 mm off all 4 sides? All the the other holes line up ok?remondo wrote:So after failing to print onto card I printed onto paper and dabbed glue onto several corners (for easy removal once cutout) and stuck it onto card. The results were great, I used a craft knife and ruler to cut it out and modified the top vent with my own design.
I reduced the size of the USB hole by 1mm on each side and pushed the USB component through for a snug fit. Super-glue didn't work for me so I just used plenty of Pritt Stick.
Pics attached, excuse the bits of excess glue, I'm only using this until the modmypi cases are ready or I decide to buy a 3D printer!
Liking the VESA mount idea - nice work!spacemacgyver wrote:I've made a subtle but significant revision (well, two, including the vents on the lid as inspired by remondo) -- the addition of VESA mounts, for affixing to the back of an LCD. It consists of two holes of [hopefully] sufficient size, separated by 10cm center-to-center. I could have made the tabs a bit more sturdy, but for demonstration purposes I feel good about it.
Thanks, yes 1mm off all 4 sides then I just gently eased the USB ports through so the lip sat nice and snug. You could always just cut about 1mm into a couple of corners if you use thicker card and have trobule getting the ports through. Things didn't quite line-up right because the whole thing was a couple of mm off centre due to the USB ports being pushed through but I just used a craft knife to open some of the holes a bit. It may take a couple more iterations to get everything lined up if you follow my modifications. If I have time I'll have a go at modifying the design to accomodate.E wrote:Looks good The tighter USB hole is nice - I wasn't sure how much wiggle room there'd be to get the USB ports through, so I designed it on the larger side. I take it you trimmed 1 mm off all 4 sides? All the the other holes line up ok?