I added a little twist to my case

I've been lurking for while, so thought I'd share this case I'm working on. I need to finish the paint job, its a bit poor at the moment.

Here is a video of things going in to place, its a bit of a tight fit!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YTzP7wWDEw

Very nice tweaks.

I like the utility of the included usb-hub and the novelty of burying the microUSB requirement inside the case! Hah! Very functional case.

[strike]Any power issues yet on devices using the non-powered hub? Is that a wireless dongle or a wireless-keyboard dongle?[/strike]

Update: read your post about the power routing for the USB hub, so ignore that question. Even better!

That's great, I'm working on a similar but bigger version including a webcam but I don't think I'd be brave enough to remove the usb ports as you've done, full marks for that.

This is good. I keep looking at my bare pi R3 and a similarly bare pluscomm hub and think they should be housed together

love the Hub and fact you removed the USB mounting to allow a smaller case design and much neater idea would you care to share the Hub and component list or will you be selling these as a mod Pi item somewhere

looks nice and is a Very Practical Design

I like damn wheres that Face-book i like link..lol


he he SN you don't have a bare Pi yours is in a Yoctopuce case although you probably have two like a few others

would you care to share the Hub and component list or will you be selling these as a mod Pi item somewhere

I picked up the bits from a local Maplin.

Case: http://www.maplin.co.uk/small-plastic-boxes-1665
Hub (was on special): http://www.maplin.co.uk/cerulian-4-port-usb-2.0-triangular-desktop-hub-513850

A few other bits such as USB B socket, rubber washers (to hold Pi in place), a scrap of Vero board, and PCB headers I had lying around.

Could you post the schematics for the board where I'm assuming you link the USB B plug to the rest of the device?

Could you post the schematics for the board where I'm assuming you link the USB B plug to the rest of the device?

Hope these photos help? It's just a question of connecting the 5v from the USB socket to the red lead of the USB cable, and to the center of the plug. Similarly for ground. I also cut off the two data pins on this socket.

The plug (for this Hub) is 0.7mm/2.5mm, but size and connections could vary between hubs.

I spent longer testing pins and connections with the conductivity setting on my multimeter than I did soldering it together. Make sure you test it first on the hub. Far better to make a mistake on a cheap hub than on your Pi! Also your PSU needs to have enough current (e.g. 2.5 amp) to run the Pi, the USB hub and peripherals.

Could you post the schematics for the board where I'm assuming you link the USB B plug to the rest of the device?

Hope these photos help? It's just a question of connecting the 5v from the USB socket to the red lead of the USB cable, and to the center of the plug. Similarly for ground. I also cut off the two data pins on this socket.

The plug (for this Hub) is 0.7mm/2.5mm, but size and connections could vary between hubs.

I spent longer testing pins and connections with the conductivity setting on my multimeter than I did soldering it together. Make sure you test it first on the hub. Far better to make a mistake on a cheap hub than on your Pi! Also your PSU needs to have enough current (e.g. 2.5 amp) to run the Pi, the USB hub and peripherals.

Those help a lot, thanks. I'm not very experienced and a Google search came up empty, what is the conductivity setting and what were you looking for?

Sorry, small typo. Its a continuity test, see this page for details http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/continuity.html

I used it to find out which pins are 5v and ground on the usb socket. That the correct connections on the USB port went to the correct location on the power plug.

Awesome, looks like ill give it a go this weekend.

Could I use just normal breadboard for the circuit? Not sure what you're using in the pictures, or if It even matters.

Its called vero board or strip board. Think about it as a breadboard where you solder components in place. Its place is where you need something a little permanent.without needing to etch a PCB.

I'm curious why you used a USB B socket for power input? What does the other end of that lead connect to? Presumably it's not connected to a standard USB A port cos that would only supply 500mA, not enough for the Pi + hub?

I'm curious why you used a USB B socket for power input?

The power supply I have accepts a USB plug, similar to a Kindle / mobile phone charger. So it made sense to use a USB socket on the board (since it would just need any USB cable).

I find its easier to mount a USB B socket in to cases (just drill a hole if your lazy) rather than the flatter USB A sockets.