It is slightly more complicated than that. You need to clamp around just the live wire inside the cable. You can't clamp around the whole cable as the live + neutral would cancel out and you wouldn't get a reading.
Actually either wire, not just live, will give the same result.
Sure but was easier to just say live side. I prefer high side monitoring anyway for various reasons but it shouldn't matter for a pump.
It might be worth experimenting. When I tried whole cable clamping I could see an indication when current was flowing even though it was far from suitable for determining how much which is the usual goal. YMMV.
In my 'experiments' what trejan said and in gginnj youtube proves more correct. Using the item I linked above, with both wires the readings often increased as current went down (occasionally versa vice). Readings very low and somewhat random.
*shrug* That is how I've always referred to measurements between power and the load. If you prefer then I'll call it live. In either case, if you monitor the live wire then you'd see everything including any unintended paths. It isn't particularly important for OP's situation anyway as I mentioned before.
https://www.leadsdirect.co.uk/knowledge ... ains-lead/ says black is live!
Whatever they use, it's silly.Burngate wrote: ↑Tue Nov 26, 2019 7:03 pmhttps://www.leadsdirect.co.uk/knowledge ... ains-lead/ says black is live!
This device is rated for 16a 240v with valid EU Certification not the dodgy China Export scam.. while not qualified myself, a contributor to another list i subscribe to has visited the factory and was quick to correct my assumption the CE marking was suspect.. ..gginnj wrote: ↑Mon Nov 25, 2019 7:41 pmif you go the route of smart plug with montioring, make sure the plug can handle the amperage of the device. most are only 10A loads. and of the 15A - I'm not so happy about the reviews - seems quite a few like to catch fire! - so now I need a smart fire detector also? will have to keep an eye on this device - one reason I'm liking the external monitoring method - but for $25US I'll try it and see how it goes, as well as try the external also as it looks to be about $30US once I have the sensor and extension cord setup.
Current should only flow in the gnd cable under fault conditions (and then usually only very transiently, until the breaker or fuse blows!). There is thus no reason to include the gnd cable in a current sensor if you choose to monitor the return current.emma1997 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 26, 2019 5:00 pmNote it's quite easy to split a typical 2 wire lamp cord to clamp one of the wires. Even with 3 wire cables it's not hard to separate out the individuals. In that case you do have to make sure to use the live wire as trejan mentions or make sure to pair the other two (neutral & gnd) and treat as one.