A wee "not yet complete" but "works enuf to say it works" project.
I have to drive a couple of stepper motors to accurate X an Y movements.
The hardware for the X Y was a "Parker" Linear Actuator 803-1436A - Check Google - (Second hand).
I used two ebay "3A Single Axis Stepper Motor Driver Controller Board" (my ebay number was 300690042128) which is a single channel TB6560 controller.
This board is opto isolated and can run on the GPIO directly - I just keep the wires short and my fingers crossed
So no need for level convertors.
The board also has microstepping (nice smooth motor motion) and a current control (so you can use keep the noise down when working late at night - actually it is so you can correcly drive the different makes/models of stepper motors.
The motors I use are beefy as I have to move some heavy-weight plate about. NEMA 23s from LIN Engineering. 4 wire/2 phase. 1.8 degrees per step.
The software base came off this site. I cant remember the ffile but the comments at the top were
// How to access GPIO registers from C-code on the Raspberry-Pi
// Example program
// Dom and Gert
I used the GPIO7 and 8 they used and added GPIO 24 and 25 for the 2nd axis.
When I get the code slightly more polished I will put it somewhere. The test/debug code is nothing startling it allows simple n/s/e/w (using unix vi "hjlk" characters) plus a liot of bits and pieces to allow me to control the stepper frequency from the keyboard (up/down/left/right). Nobody would want to do it the way I did. I am old and fat with lots of grey hair and do things my way
Anyway the wee ebay boards and the pi go together well.
The only health warnings I would give
The stepper motors have HUGE power when they through the linear screws. Take care with bits of your body and have a decent emergency stop about.
Dont unplug the motor cables (probably any cables) when the kit is live. It will just cost you money and probably not win you much
The wee control board needs 5v and gpio7 to pul and gpio8 to dir. The "-enable" line was left floating and appears to be actively pulled down. The "pul" line is the control, the "dir" line is CW or CCW.
What else can I tell you.