Maybe he already has the Pi (to drive the home cinema).drgeoff wrote:The $50 Insteon may be expensive for what it contains but surely a RPi plus PSU plus case plus interface gubbins isn't going to be much, if at all, cheaper.
The relays you have found are not designed for a Pi, although they may work. The specifications do not give enough detail to be certain, nor do they give the wiring details required. On the motor side, I suspect you are in the USA, so even mains voltage is okay (but I wouldn't want mains on telephone cable!) Again, the curtain controller specs do not quote voltage or current requirements so the design cannot be checked.andymac37 wrote:I do apologize. I'm a programmer and consider myself advanced on computers, but I guess I'm pretty amateur at this.
I understand the concept of the octocoupler, where it changes the electricity into a pulse using an LED and a photosensitive piece. I'm looking for a really easy way of doing this, so I'm wondering if a couple of these might do the trick, considering I need "It takes three relay (dry type) inputs and share common and no external power needed. Four wires: OPEN, CLOSE, STOP, and COM."
http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/Grove- ... -1412.html
If I understand this right... I could hook these up to the Pi's GPIO and I could cut a telephone cable and hook up the wires to these to drive them as a dry relay?
If the motor controller requires "dry" contacts, the power is coming from that motor end. Unless you know the voltage (I agree mains is unlikely but you need to be certain) and current specified by the motor control manufacturer you cannot specify a suitable relay.andymac37 wrote: I'm not sure what you mean about mains through the phone line- I'm pretty sure there can't be power going through it to the motor. I'm wondering if something as simple as a phone modem in the tower could send a pulse through the phone line, then.
Hiandymac37 wrote:I'm sorry. I really appreciate the help, but the information I've shared is all the manufacturer has for me.
Then the second test (assuming that the voltage is DC at a safe (<50V) level) is to measure the current that flows when the circuit is closed. From the voltage measurement, you should know which wire is positive therefore the other is negative. Set your meter to its highest current range, connect it across the two wires with the correct polarity (expect the controller to respond with the appropriate action ). Repeat the test with lower current ranges of the meter until you get a reading above zero.johndough wrote:Hiandymac37 wrote:I'm sorry. I really appreciate the help, but the information I've shared is all the manufacturer has for me.
I would attempt to measure the voltage on the control lines, and expect it to be 12 V DC.
But without more info it is not possible to be certain.
NEVER assume that. I'm an electrician. I've seen a (supposedly professionally installed) care home call system that needed mains at a remote part of the building. It was routed down telephone cable, and had a 4 gang outlet on the end. Which the cleaner could use...ame wrote:Good grief! Of course it's safe! .
So, it was installed by an electrician? What's your point?davidcoton wrote:NEVER assume that. I'm an electrician. I've seen a (supposedly professionally installed) care home call system that needed mains at a remote part of the building. It was routed down telephone cable, and had a 4 gang outlet on the end. Which the cleaner could use...ame wrote:Good grief! Of course it's safe! .
I am not an electrician, but I am also not an idiot. Now that you are done, I'll point out that the CL200T motor is powered by a 12V 12W power supply. The power is provided by a mains plug-pack.Safety of existing electrical wiring, or new unknown products without adequate instructions, must ALWAYS be proved before working on the system. There may be faults, mistakes, or ignorant idiots that render any given wiring dangerous. In this case, I would expect a control voltage of up to 24V, do the measurements (carefully) to see if that is true or not. Do the second test to find out the current switching requirement. THEN specify a relay board, knowing that it IS safe.
Relays with contacts rated 5V may not be a good idea if the voltage is more than 5V -- but I suspect you are referring to the coil voltage, which is a different matter.
ame, even more importantly, please do not post replies that could lead others into danger. It is far better to spell out properly safe ways of proceeding which turn out to be over-cautious, than making an assumption that later puts someone else's life at risk.
My point is exactly what I said. Never assume that an electrical installation is what you expect, and therefore safe. Always check.ame wrote: So, it was installed by an electrician? What's your point?
I do not for a moment think you are an idiot, and did not intend anyone to assume that. I think the guy who put mains down a phone cable was an idiot.I am not an electrician, but I am also not an idiot. Now that you are done, I'll point out that the CL200T motor is powered by a 12V 12W power supply. The power is provided by a mains plug-pack.
These are the relays to which I was referring:davidcoton wrote:If the system is powered by a 12V power pack, good. It is indeed probable that the contacts are required to switch 12V. So contacts rated at 5V are not a good idea, 12V is required, and the switching current should still be established. It would have been helpful if that information had been in the thread earlier. The principles given for approaching an unknown interface are still valid.
OK, with the specs in place, that looks suitable. Just one minor problem -- a 5V input relay board will not work if connected directly to the RPi GPIO. It will need a small driver circuit to convert the 3V3 GPIO to a 5V drive for that board. Better to find something similar that is designed for direct connection to the RPiame wrote:
These are the relays to which I was referring:
http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-4-CH-4- ... 0KFYWX9CPY
The coil is 5V @ 20mA, the contacts are 250Vac@10A or 30Vdc@10A