From years of experience I know that most people don't read such things even if you stick a message it on top of the Pi itself...cdo wrote:It is very sad seeing people write "I wish I had read this thread before..." after they discover the problems.
What about the foundation issue an official warning on a prominent place? For instance, a blog entry or in the download section where most people go after purchasing a new Pi?
This would save a lot of annoyance and also deliver the message that the problem is being investigated / solved.
I've replaced two connectors, but I would not describe the operation as simple. Have you removed soldered components from pcbs before?paul_hirst wrote:....Will it be simple enough to replace the socket?...
Great stuff!paul_hirst wrote:... much to my surprise, apparently working again. I've yet to pluck up the courage to plug in the wifi dongle which originally broke them but I have a hub plugged in and it all seems to be ok..
Thanks. I did use 60:40 leaded to lower the average melting point. I think I would try to clip off the component another time. (A dremel would have been ideal.) That would help a bit, but even once the component was removed, the hardest part was getting the GND pad of the USB port free of solder (not the two extra large mounting holes which are also grounded). I simply couldn't get it hot enough. This must have been down to the ground plane itself and I think the only thing that would have helped was more heat. I did consider a blowtorch, but then I though that would just kill the Pi and I'd be better off connecting the USB GND pin to GND elsewhere instead.ShiftPlusOne wrote:The solder used has quite a high melting point. To make it easier for yourself in the future, you could've added normal solder to lower it a little and then wick it up. You could also clip off the component first to lower the thermal mass, but I suspect the shielding metal is harder than typical wire cutters and would just ruing them.
That should be enough, but you will need a short dumpy bit, not a long pointy one!alexeames wrote:...I only have an 18 Watt Antex iron here...
If you keep applying heat by changing connectors, the tracks/pads will eventually lift and break......so best left alone, if its working....I might try it again 'properly' with my reflow gun Then again, I might just leave it if it continues to work well.
Heh, the first time I removed the connectors from a pi. I underestimated how hot the rest of the board actually was, so when I accidentally bumped the board, some of the small passives were moved off their original pads. I wasn't interested in trying to set them all back, so it was a write off. >.>alexeames wrote: I did consider a blowtorch, but then I though that would just kill the Pi and I'd be better off connecting the USB GND pin to GND elsewhere instead.
All I had was a long dumpy standard bit. Tried for ages and no dice.SteveDee wrote:That should be enough, but you will need a short dumpy bit, not a long pointy one!alexeames wrote:...I only have an 18 Watt Antex iron here...
Yeah I think I'll leave it as it is now it's working. (I would say working again, but I don't think I'd ever booted this one up before.) I think the other ones I bought were OK. But now I know to be slightly cautious and "if you have to push too hard, there's an issue"SteveDee wrote:If you keep applying heat by changing connectors, the tracks/pads will eventually lift and break......so best left alone, if its working.alexeames wrote: ...I might try it again 'properly' with my reflow gun Then again, I might just leave it if it continues to work well.
Don't forget to reduce the USB lower clip tension on your other model A boards.
I had no knowledge of this issue when I purchased my A+ there was no warning that I noticed?DougieLawson wrote:It's a known problem that the USB socket on an A+ can be a bit tight on the first few inserts. Especially with a slightly oversized plug. You may be able to get a warranty replacement, but strictly speaking it's your fault.