How to fix a ripped wire?

[PolarBear123]

So I was working on my AIY voice project (the box, the one you get from the MagPi) and suddenly the black wire to the arcade button ripped!

WIN_20181112_09_35_57_Pro.jpg (63.21 KiB) Viewed 562 times

Yes, I admit it was quite old, dating back to May 2017. But I really want to continue making and I don't see an option in buying a new voice kit. How should I fix it?
I'd prefer a method of stuff I already have at home, like tape or, it sounds stupid, but I might want to solder it. Any help is welcome!

[DougieLawson]

You need to either crimp on a new spade terminal or solder it back in place. Anything else won't work reliably.

[PolarBear123]

When I solder it (I've practiced!) should I remove part of the plastic covering and then carefully 'glue' the wire part to the terminal / metal thing?

[PhatFil]

When I solder it (I've practiced!) should I remove part of the plastic covering and then carefully 'glue' the wire part to the terminal / metal thing?

as long as you have bare wire at the tip to heat and tin the heat will strip more than enough of the wire coating, you will probably want to slip some heatshrink up the wire before you solder to counter this.

remember to avoid the fumes when soldering

[pcmanbob]

When I solder it (I've practiced!) should I remove part of the plastic covering and then carefully 'glue' the wire part to the terminal / metal thing?

If your un-sure about soldering there are plenty of videos about it on you tube.

https://www.google.com/search?q=electri ... 1&bih=1025

basically strip back some of the plastic insulation, then wrap the copper wire around the terminal heat and apply solder to joint to completed it.

[mahjongg]

I would not solder directly to the terminal, solder to the removed quick disconnect (faston) terminal instead.
The plastic of the blade terminal of the button is probably made from a kind of plastic that melts when you add enough heat to solder a wire directly to it, which could ruin the button.
That is why quick disconnect and blade terminals are used instead.

When a switch/button etc has blade terminals that often means they cannot cope with soldering to them, especially if the plastic that embeds them is soft or transparant or is brightly colored, or a combination of these.
If the plastic is hard and black, it is probably heat resistant, like micro-switches which have blade connectors, which can be soldered to, like these:


in any case I would carefully check if the plastic around the connector blade is heat resistant before risking soldering to it.