Here's how I fixed mine, it's holding up fine after several weeks and I've got quite a bit of tension pulling back on it to keep the glass against the wood frame. I doubt it will be a problem any more.
To start off with let me say that all hazards, warnings, and cautions that apply to using epoxy are in effect.
Second do not attempt this, do not allow anyone else to attempt this, and these instructions are provided for informational and entertainment purposes only.
With that said lets get started. First MAKE SURE the glass/display is lined up perfectly, if it's off and you do this you'll never move it again. You'll need some painters tape (low tack), some epoxy (30 minute at least, 60 would be better, definitely no 5 minute stuff), paper towels/rags, and some acetone. You won't need the acetone, but just in case. You'll also need a wood matchstick, wood/bamboo skewer or something else that you shave down the end and use as a tiny spatula.
Use the painters tape and mask off everything that you don't want to get epoxy on. If you have a cat put it in another room and close the door. Run the edge of the tape about a 1/16" out from the corner where the display back meets the glass. You'll see a small gap where the existing adhesive holds the back to the glass, that's the area you want to fill. You can tape the back off as I did, or run the tape down over the sides of the back plate to limit where the epoxy goes. Mine looked like this when I was ready to mix the epoxy.
Now mix the epoxy, be sure to make enough, you don't want stop half way though to mix up some more. Start applying it all the way around with your little spatula. It doesn't take much. Then take a paper towel/rag, or I actually use my finger for this, and pressing into the corner wipe it all around, just as if you were smoothing out caulk. The extra will spread out onto the painters tape and that's fine.
When you have it all smoothed out start carefully removing the tape. You need to do this before the epoxy starts to set, for several reasons. The surface energy of the metal and glass is higher than epoxy so if you remove the tape before the epoxy starts to "gel" it will flow out a little and give you a nice tapered off edge. The second reason is that if the epoxy has started to gel pulling the tape will create these long thin filiaments of epoxy between the display and tape as you pull it away. They will stick to anything they touch and you'll have to clean up afterward. And the last reason is that you shouldn't disturb epoxy once it has started to gel as it disrupts the molecular structure that has started to form. That's why you should use a slow set epoxy for this as it takes time to apply it and then remove the tape before it starts to set.
Now use the acetone if needed to clean off any that ended up on the glass or metal when you were removing the tape. It won't effect the metal or the black "ink" on the glass. Be careful though as acetone will destroy just about any plastic, wood finish, paint, etc. Do not get it on the FPC/ribbon cable for the display. When you're done it should look something like this, you can barely see the epoxy seam just above the lettering. Mine actually extended up onto the metal some, you can see the reflection of the lettering on it. Set it aside and let it cure for 24 hours before you put any tension on the back, and you'll be all set.
It sounds more involved that it is, and it only took me about 30 minutes to complete once I had my spatula made and all the materials ready to go. So it's pretty easy to do, doesn't take long, and my display was only out of action for a day.