Repeat of my previous post with the missing picture.
My main board seemed to be firmly attached to the housing but
a small screwdriver placed as per the picture and gently rotated
was enough to part the two pieces.

My main board seemed to be firmly attached to the housing but a small screwdriver placed as per the picture and gently rotated was enough to part the two pieces. [img]F:\DCIM\118_PANA\P1180133a.jpg [/img] Regarding protection of the sensor after filter removal, I measured the filter to be 9x9x1.1 mm...

With the camera plus adapters replacing the eyepiece, the telescope objective is the lens.
You will need a monitor to observe if your object is in focus.

It looks like you have 0.965 inch fitting eyepieces.

0.965 to 1.25 and 1.25 to C mount adapters at reasonable
cost appear on e-bay if you do a google search.

Good luck.

I cut my first Bahtinov mask from a plastic flower pot saucer. It was for a 200mm reflector and took forever. More recently I have inkjet printed masks on clear film and glued a second clear sheet on the ink side to give some protection. A short tube made from a narrow strip of card is then taped to...

Greetings, I have used cameras V1 and V2 for astrophotography time-lapse exercises with settings such as :- raspistill -t 30000 -ex night -ISO 800 -bm -tl 0 -ss 10000000-o timelapse1%d01.jpg for V2. With my HQ camera on a 80mm refractor telescope, I applied similar settings but varied -ss up to 3000...

Waiting for the rpi-update I used V3 on a 80 mm refactor telescope to do similar time-lapse exposures to those I had made with V2s. Settings such as raspistill -t 30000 -ex night -ISO 800 -bm -tl 0 -o timelapse1%d01.jpg were used with -ss varied between 5000000 and 30000000. I found that, for exampl...