I made a Raspberry PI Laptop


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by AndrewS » Fri Jun 22, 2012 10:35 am
JonB wrote:He's also connected one of the USB data lines to the power socket (you can see the wire crossing the Pi) so it just needs one additional plug (not two as in the "classic" Lapdock Y cable.

...and replaced the dual-USB connector with a single-USB connector. Very neat solution :)
(although would make the Pi harder to use in non-lapdock situations without a powered USB hub)
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by lmoss30 » Fri Jun 22, 2012 9:01 pm
I am working on this at present, how hard was it modding the Hdmi connector
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by AndrewS » Sun Jun 24, 2012 12:59 pm
lmoss30 wrote:I am working on this at present, how hard was it modding the Hdmi connector

Exactly which "HDMI connector mod" are you referring to? ;)
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by zulucat » Sun Jun 24, 2012 5:55 pm
Thanks to veryevil for starting this thread. I now have my Lapdock up & running with the R-Pi.

I don't know if anyone has verified that the Lapdock's USB ports work properly. They do. I was able to successfully mount (and use) a usb flash drive attached to one of the ports.

-----
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by lmoss30 » Sun Jun 24, 2012 7:42 pm
Someone has modded the micro hdmi connector to be a male hdmi connector, was wondering the process that was done to achieve it and how easy it is, before i take the soldering iron to the port.

The other thing i am wondering is if there any way to have two display types defined so it can be used on a group 1 and group 2 hdmi mode?
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by masterofstuff124 » Mon Jun 25, 2012 2:36 am
^I would also like to know this. would make mounting pies a breeze.
I have a dissected hdmi male head with leads. once i get a confirmation on the pinout/colors cheme. i will splice them together. until then i wouldnt want to ruin my lapdock.
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by Lob0426 » Mon Jun 25, 2012 4:26 am
That would be a good how to if he has taken any pictures!
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by godFather89 » Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:02 am
It's fairly easy to mount an HDMI type A male socket if you have some soldering experience and lots of patience.
There are 18 (tinny) wires connected on that micro connector (type D). You just have to solder them to the connector you have (type A). I wanted the type A connector center mounted but the original wires were too short, so I added some other wires to make them longer. Note that the pinout of the micro connector is not pin to pin compatible with the big coonector, I'll look for the pinouts and post them (if I can find them).
Unfortunately I did not take any photos.
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by godFather89 » Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:16 am
In other topics I described that I removed the onboard USB hub (+ethernet). I also removed the 3.3V linear regulator. Actually I replaced it with a switch mode regulator (higher efficiency) and added a Li-Ion battery (from a phone), a charger IC and a power switch. So now my Pi is powered from the battery (4.2V max) and the battery is charged from the lapdock. In this way, the Pi will not restart anymore when the lapdock lid is closed.
I also did some power measurements and my Pi draws 0.504W (120mA) when idle.

Here are the photos (taken with the phone - bad quality) with the results:
https://picasaweb.google.com/tatarandrei/RaspberryPiLapdock?authuser=0&feat=directlink
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by masterofstuff124 » Mon Jun 25, 2012 5:44 pm
God father. If you didnt have the pinouts and they arent compaitble. How did you manage to wire it correctly?
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by Jim Manley » Mon Jun 25, 2012 6:06 pm
Well, at least your Pi is immobilized in your setup - mine is still splayed out with its electronic tentacles leading off in all directions of the compass :lol: I'm just having too much fun working on software to go through the pain of desoldering and resoldering all of those microscopic wires. Since there is some space below the swiveling docking cradle where the phone would normally fit, I'm probably going to snake the micro HDMI and USB cables down through that gap to the enclosure I'm building to house the Pi and at least a USB hard disk drive, a WiFi dongle, and possibly also a powered USB hub and an auxiliary battery. That will be cleaner than having cables coming out of the back of the enclosure, which would snag and get ripped to shreds given Murphy's Law, and taking something irreparable with them, in accordance with the corollaries to Murphy's Law. Hmmm, I wonder if the lapdock will be able to support a powered hub and additional USB devices, never mind a USB HDD, especially at startup when current demand is highest.

When I worked at TiVo, the electrical engineers worked to reduce component costs to the absolute minimums (using components with the lowest possible power specs and still remain within safety and performance margins) that they built a power boot-up delay into the motherboard to wait until the hard drive(s) were spun up to full speed and drawing minimal current. In other words, the power supply had insufficient capacity to both spin up the drives and boot the system! The difference was only cents per component, but, since millions of TiVos were being built, that translated into hundreds of thousands of dollars saved per component. Working for a consumer electronics company as a software engineer was one of the most educational experiences of my life, and I had already been a mechanical engineer during a career in the Navy, including nuclear engineering, so, I had worked on some pretty sophisticated technology.

Has anyone isolated where the switch is that detects when the lid is closed to determine whether it's electromechanical (and therefore shortable), or magnetic proximity (e.g., reed or Hall effect)? Logically, it should be somewhere along the lid hinge line near the printed circuit boards on which the full-size USB and power connectors are located, with wires between the switch and board (providing easy access for hacking).

I haven't had this much fun since I first owned an Apple ][ in 1977 - I'm waiting for some twit to declare this amount of fun illegal just because they're jealous of us :D
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by Lob0426 » Mon Jun 25, 2012 6:17 pm
godFather89 wrote:In other topics I described that I removed the onboard USB hub (+ethernet). I also removed the 3.3V linear regulator. Actually I replaced it with a switch mode regulator (higher efficiency) and added a Li-Ion battery (from a phone), a charger IC and a power switch. So now my Pi is powered from the battery (4.2V max) and the battery is charged from the lapdock. In this way, the Pi will not restart anymore when the lapdock lid is closed.
I also did some power measurements and my Pi draws 0.504W (120mA) when idle.

Here are the photos (taken with the phone - bad quality) with the results:
https://picasaweb.google.com/tatarandrei/RaspberryPiLapdock?authuser=0&feat=directlink


I think it would make a good post if you would describe the process you went through to get to this point. A parts list would be nice also. You have done a whole lot of work to your RasPi. That .504watt is pretty low. Someone had a thread where they tested the production RasPi at 2watts resting. The Alphas were at 350watts resting or so and 1watt running full out.

On a side note I noticed your RasPi was shivering. I think it is because it is just about naked. :lol:

Overall a good job. You have taken a lot of risks considering how hard it is to get replacements. :mrgreen:
I am still waiting for my HDMI adapters.
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http://rich1.dyndns.tv/
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by gregeric » Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:01 pm
Nice project! Got one on order. See viewtopic.php?p=108628#p108628 for a ready-made mini UPS which will defeat the lapdock lid switch in a similar way to godFather89's
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by magarcan » Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:08 pm
This is really interesting. I live in Spain, so buying Lapdock is about $120. Anyway I like a lot this projet, but I'm not too happy with how to attach raspi to the laptdock.

At the end, what we want is a laptop, and have hanging cables I think is not the best way to have a real laptop. Do any of you have plans about how to get this looking better?

Post photos please ;)
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by godFather89 » Mon Jun 25, 2012 9:08 pm
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by Lob0426 » Mon Jun 25, 2012 9:52 pm
godFather89 wrote:Some guidelines for now:
http://andreiprojects.blogspot.ro/2012/06/raspberry-pi-modding-atrix-lapdock.html

Will most more soon.

Thank you that will help others, and me, get the nice and clean installation you have. Nice Job again.

Very frustrated. Have had the Lapdock for a week and a half now. The micro HDMI female to HDMI male adapters that I have ordered are still not here. I would like to test the Lapdock before I tear into it.
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by masterofstuff124 » Tue Jun 26, 2012 3:56 am
God father. Do you also have the pinout for the usb. I foolishly cut the head off mine. I was able to map power to the pi but i cant seem to get the usb functions working.
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by godFather89 » Tue Jun 26, 2012 5:41 am
There are 7 wires in the USB cable from the lapdock:

2 black - +5V
yellow and shield - GND
orange - ignore it (it is connected on the connector between GND and Data+ but it is not used)
red and brown - are the data lines (data+ and data-). You need to test them to see which is which (you can't brake anything).

Image
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by Lob0426 » Tue Jun 26, 2012 5:19 pm
This is a color code for USB:

http://forums.techguy.org/attachments/1 ... r-code.jpg

Hope it helps!
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by masterofstuff124 » Tue Jun 26, 2012 5:30 pm
I managed to figure out on my own that the red and the brown are the data lines/ I have them wired to a usb port going into the pi. And the pi recognizes them but gives me errors similar to the ones people get with hub issues. It seems odd though that it worked perfectly with the connector and now without it it does not wokr. Any ideas?

side note- There are two speakers in the lapdock. Both can easily be removed. and this leaves two very nice empy pockets in the back corners of the laptop. would be a good place to put extra storage or a wifi card/bluetooth. Assuming we can get the hub to accept extra usb ports
/
?
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by godFather89 » Tue Jun 26, 2012 6:06 pm
And here is a short post about adding a Li-Ion battery: http://andreiprojects.blogspot.ro/2012/06/raspberry-pi-removing-hub-and-adding-li.html.

The problem is that the lapdock cuts the power to the internal USB hub, also, when the lid is closed. So I guess this will need a lapdock hack as well.
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by masterofstuff124 » Tue Jun 26, 2012 6:18 pm
http://imgur.com/IOaFT
These are the error messages I get when the usb (its seems) is correctly wired.
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by godFather89 » Tue Jun 26, 2012 6:24 pm
Have you connected GND? Also, try switching them (the red and brown wires).
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by masterofstuff124 » Tue Jun 26, 2012 6:41 pm
I first had the black and yellow wire each going to power and the red and brown going to data. I would get the errors posted above. Now I have both Blacks and the yellow and the shield going to power. And the red and brown both going to usb. Same errors as above.
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by Jim Manley » Tue Jun 26, 2012 6:48 pm
Lob0426 wrote:
godFather89 wrote:In other topics I described that I removed the onboard USB hub (+ethernet). I also removed the 3.3V linear regulator. Actually I replaced it with a switch mode regulator (higher efficiency) and added a Li-Ion battery (from a phone), a charger IC and a power switch. So now my Pi is powered from the battery (4.2V max) and the battery is charged from the lapdock. In this way, the Pi will not restart anymore when the lapdock lid is closed.
I also did some power measurements and my Pi draws 0.504W (120mA) when idle.


That .504watt is pretty low. Someone had a thread where they tested the production RasPi at 2watts resting. The Alphas were at 350watts resting or so and 1watt running full out. .

Something is seriously wrong with these numbers.

From everything I've experienced and others have reported, there's no way a Pi can run on 4.2 volts at the supply input - none, nada, zip. Where/how was this measured?

Measuring power is a tricky proposition because you have to measure both voltage and current together instantaneously. I don't see in the photos where you're measuring both at the same time. Plus, meters perform averaging, whether they're analog or digital, so, you can't really state accurately what the actual power is on such a complex device as a computer without using storage oscilloscopes or digital signal processors/analog-to-digital converters (one for voltage and another for current). Power consumption fluctuates by sub-microseconds, depending on what's being executed at any given moment, and this is especially true when power levels are as low as they are with the Pi.

350 watts? Waaaaatt??? Obviously, you meant 350 milliwatts (mw), or 0.350 watts (that's why engineers include the leading zero before the decimal point :) ). We all know this, but, I'm pointing this out for folks who may be trying to learn from us. It's bad enough when we get sloppy with programming, but, data, especially physical data measurements, need to be measured and reported precisely, or they tend to take on a life of their own. Few people have the knowledge, experience, and equipment needed to do it right, so, we need to be extra careful what we measure and report as ideal examples to the students following our work.

Once I get everything tucked into my below-lapdock case, I'll make some measurements with voltage and current recording equipment in the EE lab that's appropriate for this sort of thing. I'll see if I can figure out how to coordinate the recordings with what's actually running on the Pi at any given point in time (e.g., output from the Linux "top" utility). I'm not sure how I'll get timestamps so the voltage/current data can be correlated with the running processes.

Other than that, everything else went fine at the theater, Mrs. Lincoln! ;)
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